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Noh Costume (Nuihaku) with Books and Nandina Branches

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Scattered books decorated with seasonal motifs and poetic patterns evoke the aristocratic world of the Heian period (794\u20131185) and literary masterpieces such as The Tale of Genji while also reflecting the sharp rise in publishing and literacy in the Edo period (1615\u20131868). Among the patterns ornamenting the books are waves with seashells (upper back, left) and flat bamboo baskets with cherry blossoms (lower back, left). The robe\u2019s overall treelike pattern\u2014with its naturalistic depiction of the auspicious nandina (nanten), its colorful red and pink berries growing from hem to Shoulder\u2014is familiar in nontheatrical garments of the late eighteenth century but is unusual for a noh robe. The nuihaku is a type of noh costume decorated with both embroidery (nui) and metallic leaf (haku). With its solid gold ground, this robe is an especially splendid kind of nuihaku worn for the roles of upper-class women.

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